The climbing community is mourning the loss of John Middendorf, a true giant of big wall climbing and equipment design. Middendorf passed away on June 21, 2024, at the age of 65, while visiting family in Rhode Island.

John’s impact on the world of big wall climbing is undeniable. From tackling the toughest walls in Yosemite to pioneering routes in Zion National Park and pushing the boundaries on expeditions like the Great Trango Tower, Middendorf was a force to be reckoned with. But his legacy extends far beyond his own climbing achievements.

A Stanford Engineer with a Passion for Climbing

Born in New York City in 1959, John’s love for the outdoors blossomed early. He honed his climbing skills in Yosemite Valley during the 1980s, a period considered a golden age for big wall climbing. However, John wasn’t just a climber; he was also a brilliant mind. He graduated with a degree in mechanical engineering from Stanford University, and this unique combination of physical prowess and technical expertise would shape the rest of his career.

Scaling the Hardest Walls in Yosemite

Yosemite Valley became John’s proving ground. El Capitan, Half Dome – these iconic big walls weren’t just challenges; they were canvases for John’s audacious spirit. He tackled some of the most difficult routes in the valley, pushing his own limits and inspiring a generation of climbers.

Beyond Yosemite: Leaving His Mark on Zion and the World

John’s adventurous spirit wasn’t confined to Yosemite. He ventured out, exploring the vast potential of big walls in Zion National Park. Here, he became a pioneer, establishing numerous challenging routes that continue to test the skills of climbers today. His thirst for exploration wasn’t limited to the US either. In 1992, he joined an expedition to the mighty Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, successfully scaling the world’s largest rock wall.

A Legacy of Innovation: The Rise of A5 Adventures

A near-tragic accident on Half Dome in the late 1980s proved to be a turning point in John’s career. A failure of a portaledge, a crucial piece of equipment for big wall climbers, almost led to disaster for John and his companions. This incident sparked a fire within him – a desire to improve the safety and reliability of big wall equipment.

Fueled by his engineering background and his own experiences on the wall, John founded A5 Adventures in 1986. The company focused on designing and manufacturing innovative big wall equipment, with a particular emphasis on portaledges. A5’s designs were revolutionary. They were built with strong, weatherproof materials, engineered for maximum stability, and could withstand the harshest conditions faced by climbers in the world’s most extreme environments. A5 portaledges quickly became the industry standard, a testament to John’s commitment to safety and innovation.

More Than Just Climbing: A Renowned Writer and Advocate

John’s contributions to the climbing community extended far beyond his climbing and equipment design. He was a gifted writer, sharing his experiences and insights through articles and books. He was also a passionate advocate for climbing conservation, working to preserve the pristine environments that had given him so much joy.

A Loss Felt by the Entire Climbing Community

John Middendorf’s passing leaves a void in the climbing world. He was more than just a legendary climber; he was a visionary, an innovator, and a true friend to the sport. His legacy will live on in the awe-inspiring routes he established, the equipment that keeps climbers safe, and the countless individuals he inspired.

Remembering John Middendorf

As the climbing community mourns John’s loss, it’s also a time to celebrate his incredible life and achievements. Here are some ways to remember John:

• Read about him: Several articles and climbing biographies delve into John’s life and accomplishments.
• Try a big wall climb: If you’re an experienced climber, consider tackling a big wall route, a fitting tribute to John’s pioneering spirit.
• Support big wall conservation: John was passionate about protecting climbing areas. Donate to organizations dedicated to preserving these irreplaceable environments.
• Share your stories: Did you know John? Did his climbing inspire you? Share your stories and memories online or at your local climbing gym.

John Middendorf may be gone, but his impact on the world of climbing will endure. He leaves behind a legacy of adventure, innovation, and a deep respect for the natural world.